In late 2017, Harts Victoria Hotel became the Victoria Hotel. The old corner pub, with TAB and $10 counter meals, was given a complete overhaul. It has new owners, menus and furnishings. The TAB is gone. Behind the change is Anthony Hammond, his wife Jo de Fina and friend Nick Carter.

You’re still likely to find the old locals sitting at the bar, but with a Hop Nation pale rather than a pot of Carlton Draught – the old favourite is still on but regulars are embracing change and Hop Nation is fast becoming the pub’s biggest seller.

The menu is modern pub at a reasonable price. Expect parmas, a couple of steaks, beer-battered fish, and bangers and mash. Wines may surprise, with a white, rosé and red on tap from Anton van Klopper, known for his low-intervention Lucy Margaux label. There are 30 or so by the bottle with an emphasis on low intervention.

The pub’s concrete floors and stripped wooden furnishings feel a touch unfinished but timeless. The dining room continues the pared-back vibe with a combination of timbers. Light streams in through the small beer garden at the side. It’s a classic pub, just a bit nicer. There are plenty of spots at the bar, which dominates the main space.